Houseplant · Asparagaceae
African Spear
Dracaena angolensis
Hand it bright light and a dry pot between drinks, and honestly, the African spear pretty much runs itself.
Bright indirect
Every 14–30 days
USDA 10–11
2–7 ft · 0.6–2.1 m
Overview
So what's the African spear? It's a snake plant that swapped the usual flat blades for stiff, round spears that shoot straight up. It grew up in the dry parts of southern tropical Africa, and you can tell, because it barely asks for anything. These days botanists call it Dracaena angolensis, but don't worry if you still know it as Sansevieria cylindrica, since plenty of people do.
The fun part is the shape. Every leaf is a smooth cylinder that narrows to a tip, and they fan out from the base into a tidy little clump. You'll sometimes see the young leaves braided together, or the short, stubby 'Boncel' version, but they're all the same easygoing, slow-growing plant underneath. Pretty hard to go wrong, right?
Here's the thing though: this plant hates being fussed over way more than being forgotten. Set it somewhere bright, let the soil dry right out between waterings, and it'll hold its shape for years. But drown it in a heavy, wet mix and the base will rot from the inside out. So when in doubt? Just leave it alone.
Care
The short version: it likes bright indirect light and a gritty mix that empties fast, and it only wants a drink once the soil's gone completely dry, which usually lands around every two weeks in summer, then monthly once winter sets in.
Light
It'll do its best in bright indirect light, but it's not picky and handles just about anything, from a sunny window to a dim corner. Low light won't hurt it, it'll just grow even slower. One catch though: ease it into strong afternoon sun slowly, or the spears can get scorched.
Water
The trick is to wait until the soil's totally dry, then give it a good soak. That usually means a drink about every couple of weeks in summer and once a month in winter. Not sure? Hold off, because this plant would much rather be too dry than sit in a soggy pot.
Soil
Go with a cactus or succulent mix that drains quickly and doesn't hang onto water. That fast drainage is what keeps the roots and base from staying wet, and wet feet are pretty much the one thing this plant can't deal with.
Humidity
Don't overthink humidity. Regular room air is fine, and dry air doesn't faze it one bit. No misting, no pebble tray, nothing extra, which is honestly part of the appeal.
Feeding
It's not a hungry plant. A little all-purpose fertilizer at half strength once a month through spring and summer is all it needs, and you can skip feeding completely in winter.
Pruning
Barely anything to do here. Pruning stays minimal, so just trim off any leaf that's damaged or rotting at the base, and let the rest of the clump do its thing.
Repotting
This is a slow grower that actually likes being a bit cramped, so you'll only repot it every 3 to 5 years, or whenever the roots and rhizomes start crowding the pot or pushing on the sides. When you do, just bump it up one pot size.
Size & spacing
Give it time and it'll reach 2 to 7 feet (60 to 210 cm) tall indoors, with the clump spreading 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) across. Grab a heavy pot for it, since those tall spears can make it a little top-heavy.
Troubleshooting
Almost everything that goes sideways with this plant comes back to water, light, or cold, so that's where to look first. Keep an eye on the spears and the base, since that's where the early signs pop up. Spot your issue below and fix it early, before a little problem turns into a big one.
A mushy base and a sour smell coming off the pot
Not great, but fixable: that's root rot, and it almost always comes from too much water in soil that stays wet. Pop the plant out, snip every black or mushy root back to firm tissue, and set it in fresh, gritty mix. Then just leave it dry until it's back on its feet.
Fix:
- Unpot and cut away rotted roots
- Repot in dry well-draining mix
- Withhold water until recovered
Spears going yellow, soft, and kind of floppy
When the spears turn yellow and squishy, they're drinking more than they can handle, which usually means overwatering or soil that stays soggy. Stop watering and let everything dry out completely before the next drink. If it keeps happening, switch to a grittier mix or a pot that drains better.
Fix:
- Stop watering
- Let soil dry fully
- Improve drainage
Soft, discolored spears after a cold snap
This is cold damage, and it shows up once the plant drops below 55°F (13°C) or catches a frost, since it's a tender tropical that only handles the cold in zones 10 and 11. Move it somewhere warm and trim off the ruined parts. Whenever it might get that cold, just bring it inside.
Fix:
- Move indoors
- Remove damaged tissue
Sticky film, white fuzz, or fine speckling on the leaves
Sticky residue and cottony fuzz usually mean mealybugs or scale, while fine speckling and webbing point to thrips or spider mites. Wipe the spears down with a damp cloth, hit them with insecticidal soap, and keep the plant away from the others until it's clean. A quick check every now and then catches them before they spread.
Fix:
- Wipe leaves with damp cloth
- Treat with insecticidal soap
- Isolate affected plant
Pale or brown patches on the sunny side
That's just sunburn, usually from harsh afternoon sun or a sudden move from shade into full glare. Give it morning sun only, and if you want it brighter, move it there over a week or two instead of all at once. The scorched bits won't heal, but the new growth comes in clean.
Fix:
- Move to morning sun only
- Acclimate gradually to brighter light
Toxicity
Quick heads-up: the leaves are loaded with saponins, which makes this a plant you'll want to keep away from pets. If a cat or dog chews on it, they'll usually drool, throw up, and feel pretty rough for a bit. People are basically fine around it, but none of it's meant to be eaten, so keep it out of reach of little kids too.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Mild
Since the leaves are full of saponins, a cat that chews on them will usually drool and get sick. Go for a bigger bite and its pupils can widen and it'll get wobbly, so keep the plant well out of reach.
Dogs Mild
A dog that gnaws on a spear will probably drool, throw up, and get a bit of diarrhea. It's usually mild though, and clears up once the plant's out of the way.
Horses Caution
Those same saponins can upset a horse's stomach too, so it's best to keep the plant well away from any that might take a bite.
Rabbits Caution
Rabbits don't handle the saponins any better than cats or dogs do, so don't let them nibble the spears. Keep it out of hopping range.
Livestock Caution
Grazing animals can get drooling and an upset stomach from the saponins, so fence the plant off wherever they roam.
Birds Caution
A curious bird pecking at the leaves can swallow the same irritating saponins, so it's better kept out of reach.
People Caution
People are basically fine around it, but nothing on it is meant to be eaten. A kid who chews a leaf might drool or feel a little queasy, so keep it away from small hands.
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
There's no long list to memorize here. Really, it's just two forms worth being able to tell apart at the store.
'Boncel' (starfish sansevieria)
It's a dwarf version whose short, chunky spears splay out from the base, so the whole thing kind of looks like a starfish.
Braided form
It's a bunch of young leaf cuttings that a grower braided together by hand, and they just keep growing on as one plaited column.
How to propagate
Want more of these? Good news, it's easy, and dividing the plant is way quicker than fussing with seed or cuttings.
DivisionEasy
Spring or summer, during repotting · Several weeks
The easiest way to get more is to split a clump while you're repotting in spring or summer. Just pull the offsets apart at the rhizome, keep some roots on each piece, and pot them up on their own. They'll settle in over a few weeks and grow up just like the parent.
Leaf cuttingsModerate
Spring or summer · Several weeks to months
You can also root sections of leaf taken in spring or summer, though it takes more patience. Stand the cuttings upright in gritty mix and wait anywhere from a few weeks to a few months for roots to show up. This is how growers get the cuttings they want for braiding.
SeedDemanding
Spring or summer · Months
Seed's the slow route and honestly not worth it indoors, where the plant hardly ever flowers. Sow fresh seed in spring or summer and be ready to wait months for anything to happen. Most people just skip it and go with division or cuttings.
Myths
The starfish 'Boncel' is its own separate species.
Nope. 'Boncel' is just a cultivar of Dracaena angolensis, the same plant in a shorter, chunkier shape. It isn't a separate species, even though that low fan of stubby spears looks pretty different.
Braided plants grow into that shape all by themselves.
Not really. A grower weaves the young leaf cuttings together by hand while they're still bendy, and after that the plant just keeps the braided shape as it grows.
Snake plants never need watering.
They can go a good while between drinks, sure, but never is pushing it. Water it about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, and always wait until the soil's dry before you pour.