Herb · Asteraceae
Roman Chamomile
Chamaemelum nobile
Give it full sun and dry feet, and it spreads into a soft apple-scented mat.
Full sun
Every 7–10 days
60–90 days
USDA 4–9

Overview
Roman chamomile is a low, creeping perennial in the daisy family that spreads into a soft mat. Brush a hand across its feathery foliage and you'll catch a warm, apple-like scent, which is exactly why people plant it for fragrant lawns and along path edges.
Through summer it puts out cheerful white-and-yellow daisy flowers. When you want to dry some for tea, pick the heads while the petals are lying flat or have just opened fully.
It's grown mostly for scent and those little blooms, and because it knits together so well underfoot, it makes a lovely living edge or a soft, walkable groundcover.
Care
The short version: Roman chamomile loves full sun and well-drained soil, asks for very little, and rewards you with a low, fragrant mat. Water only when the top half of the soil has dried, skip the heavy feeding, and shear it back after it blooms. The one thing it can't forgive is soggy soil, so keep its roots on the dry side and you're golden.
Light
Give it full sun if you can. It'll put up with partial shade, but the more light it gets, the denser the mat grows and the more flowers you'll see. Sun-starved chamomile just looks a bit thin and shy with its blooms.
Water
Water it moderately and let the top half of the soil dry out between drinks, which usually lands around every 7 to 10 days. Once it's settled in, it shrugs off dry spells pretty well. What it won't tolerate is soggy ground, and wet feet are the fastest way to kill it through root rot.
Soil
Plant it in light, well-drained sandy loam and aim for a pH 5.6 to 7.5. That said, sharp drainage matters far more than getting the pH exactly right. Got heavy clay? Work in some grit to loosen it up so water can move through.
Temperature
It's comfortable across 39°F to 86°F (4°C to 30°C) and tough enough to come back through zone 4, doing well in zones 4 to 9. The catch is a long, hot, humid summer, which can leave the middle of the mat looking thin and brown.
Humidity
This one likes things on the dry side, somewhere around 30% to 50%. Muggy, still air is its enemy because it opens the door to fungal dieback. Honestly, good airflow does more for it than fussing over moisture levels.
Feeding
Keep the feeding light, since it really doesn't need much, if anything. One balanced, low-nitrogen feed in spring covers it for the year. Pile on more and you'll just get soft, floppy growth that aphids find irresistible.
Pruning
After it finishes flowering, give it a light shear or mow to keep the mat tight and nudge fresh growth along. Snipping off spent flowers as you go also keeps the bloom coming for longer.
Repotting
You won't be repotting often. If you're growing it in a container, divide and refresh it every 2 to 3 years, or step in sooner if the roots start circling the pot, the growth thins out, or the soil suddenly dries way too fast.
Size & spacing
Expect it to reach 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) tall and spread 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) wide as it mats outward. Space plants close if you want them to knit into a lawn, or leave a bit of breathing room for neat, separate clumps.
When to plant
Wondering when to do what? Start your seed indoors in late winter, then move the young plants outside in spring once the last frost has passed and the soil feels warm to the touch. From there, you'll be picking flower heads all summer long as they keep opening.
Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
Typical months for a temperate climate: start earlier in warm zones, later where spring frosts linger.
- Sow: Late winter to early spring, 6-8 weeks before the last frost
- Plant: Spring, after the last frost when soil has warmed
- Harvest: White-and-yellow daisy flowers in summer; harvest flower heads when the petals are flat or just fully opened
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zones: 4–9
Temperature: down to -34°C
Troubleshooting
Even an easygoing plant runs into the odd hiccup, so here's what to look for. Most chamomile trouble comes down to aphids, wet roots, or a sticky stretch of heat and humidity. Spot the signs early and the fix is usually simple.
Wilting and yellowing in wet soil
When the plant starts wilting, yellowing, and collapsing in soggy ground, the culprit is almost always root rot from poorly drained or overwatered soil. Pull one up and the roots will be black and mushy, and sadly there's no rescuing a plant that's gone that far. Your best move is to improve drainage, water less, and remove and toss the worst-hit plants before it spreads.
Fix:
- Improve soil drainage
- Reduce watering frequency
- Remove and discard severely affected plants
Center of mat thins and browns in heat
If the middle of your mat thins, browns, and dies back during hot, sticky weather, that's heat and humidity stress, sometimes paired with fungal dieback when the air sits still. Shear it back to encourage fresh basal growth, thin things out so air can circulate, and in really hot climates give it some afternoon shade.
Fix:
- Shear back to encourage fresh basal growth
- Improve air circulation by thinning
- Provide afternoon shade in hot climates
Distorted sticky buds with clustered insects
If the flower buds look twisted and sticky, there's a cluster of bugs on them, and flowering drops off, you've likely got aphids on the buds. Too much nitrogen tends to invite them by pushing soft growth. To be sure, check for small soft-bodied insects along with a shiny honeydew film. Knock them back with a strong jet of water, follow up with insecticidal soap, and welcome ladybugs into the patch. Going forward, ease off the fertilizer and keep the air moving.
Fix:
- Spray plants with a strong jet of water
- Apply insecticidal soap to affected buds
- Encourage beneficial predators such as ladybugs
Sticky curled leaves with insects underneath
Notice sticky, curling leaves with little bugs gathered on the undersides? Those are aphids feeding on the tender foliage. Confirm it by spotting the aphids and the honeydew on the leaf undersides. Hose the foliage off, reach for insecticidal soap if needed, and back up the ladybugs and other beneficial insects doing their thing.
Fix:
- Hose off foliage with water
- Apply insecticidal soap
Toxicity
Here's the part worth slowing down for. The flowers brew into a gentle, soothing tea that's fine for most people, yet the ASPCA lists the plant as mildly toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. Volatile oils and anthemic acid in the foliage can trigger vomiting, an itchy rash, and with steady long-term chewing a tendency to bleed. So enjoy the tea yourself, and keep grazing pets away from the plant.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds
Safe for
People
Cats Mild
The ASPCA flags chamomile as mildly toxic to cats. A cat that nibbles it might drool, vomit, or lose interest in food, and the volatile oils can leave an itchy, irritated rash wherever the plant touched skin. The bigger concern is steady chewing over weeks, because anthemic acid can thin the blood and raise the risk of bleeding.
Dogs Mild
Dogs react in much the same mild way, with an upset stomach, loose stools, and a poor appetite after a curious chew. Brushing against crushed foliage can also bring on contact dermatitis. Keep an eye on a dog that grazes it day after day, since long-term exposure can lead to a bleeding tendency.
Horses Mild
Grazing horses tend to get off fairly lightly, with mild digestive upset, a dull appetite, and the occasional skin reaction. A single mouthful isn't acutely dangerous, but the same blood-thinning effect builds up with chronic grazing, so it's smart to keep them clear of chamomile borders and pasture stands.
Rabbits Caution
Rabbits aren't on the ASPCA's list, but those same volatile oils make chamomile a poor pick for a grazer this small. One nibbled flower head probably won't hurt, yet steady browsing could bring soft stools or a fading appetite, so it's best kept out of reach.
Livestock Caution
Cattle, goats, and sheep usually walk right past the bitter, aromatic foliage, and a few mouthfuls rarely cause any trouble. Still, treat it with caution, because the volatile oils and tannins that bother pets can irritate a grazing animal's gut if it eats a large amount.
Birds Caution
There's not much solid data on birds either way. It isn't known to be dangerous to them, but the irritant oils mean a pet bird shouldn't graze it freely, and any deliberate herbal use is worth running past an avian vet first.
People Safe as tea
For people, the flowers are the classic base for a calming cup of tea and are safe to drink for most. The thing to watch is the daisy family link: anyone allergic to ragweed or related plants can react, and handling fresh foliage sometimes leaves a mild skin rash.
Handling or crushing the foliage can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive people and animals; wash hands after handling and keep grazing or chewing pets away.
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
United Kingdom
Animal PoisonLine: 01202 509000 (fee applies)
Australia
Animal Poisons Helpline: 1300 869 738
Varieties
Thinking about which one to grow? A couple of forms stand out depending on whether you're after a carpet of fragrance or a fuller flower.
'Treneague'
'Treneague' is a non-flowering, low-growing form that gardeners love for fragrant chamomile lawns, and since it sets no seed, the only way to make more is by dividing the mat.
'Flore Pleno'
'Flore Pleno' is a double-flowered form with rounded, fuller blooms in creamy white, a softer look than the plain daisy you usually see.
How to propagate
Want more plants? You've got two easy routes, and which you pick depends a little on the variety. Seed and division both work nicely, so let's walk through each.
SeedEasy
Sow indoors in late winter to early spring, or direct-sow after the last frost · Germinates in about 10-14 days; establishes over the first growing season
Growing from seed is easy. Sow it indoors in late winter to early spring, or direct-sow once the last frost has passed. The seed is fine and needs light to sprout, so scatter it on the surface and just press it down rather than burying it. It germinates in about 10 to 14 days and settles in over the first growing season.
DivisionEasy
Spring or early autumn · 2-4 weeks to root in
Division is just as easy. Lift an established mat in spring or early autumn and gently pull it into rooted clumps, which take hold within 2 to 4 weeks. It's also your only option for the non-flowering 'Treneague', since that one never sets seed.
Myths
Roman chamomile and German chamomile are the same plant.
They do look alike and both make a fine cup of tea, but they're different plants from different genera. Roman chamomile is a low, mat-forming perennial, while German chamomile is a taller annual that reseeds itself. One spreads out as a fragrant groundcover, and the other shoots up and is gone by winter.
Chamomile is completely safe around pets because it is a soothing herbal tea.
Safe in your cup doesn't mean safe in the garden. The ASPCA lists chamomile as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses, and a curious chew can bring on vomiting, diarrhea, lost appetite, and an itchy rash. A herb that calms people down can still make a pet sick.