Houseplant · Arecaceae

Fishtail Palm

Caryota mitis

A bold indoor palm with leaflets shaped like a fish's tail, easy to please as long as you respect its prickly fruit.

Light

Bright indirect

Water

Every 7–⁠14 days

Warmth

55–⁠84°F · 13–⁠29°C

Hardiness

USDA 9–⁠11

Toxic to cats, dogs, horses & more
Fishtail Palm

Overview

Ever wonder where this plant gets its name? Look at the leaflets. Each one is ragged and chopped off at the tip, kind of like the fin of a fish, and they sit on fronds that divide twice over. The result is a soft, full look that reads as lush rather than spiky, so it brings a relaxed jungle feel to a room.

Here's the thing about its shape: it's a clumping, multi-stemmed palm, so new shoots keep pushing up from the base. Instead of one bare trunk, you get a leafy column that fills in over time and keeps getting denser. That's part of what makes it such a satisfying plant to grow indoors.

Indoors it usually settles in around 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 m) tall, which makes it a real statement plant for a bright corner. Give it the floor space and good light, and it'll happily anchor a room without much fuss from you.

Care

The short version: give it bright indirect light, water once the top half of the soil dries out, keep it warm, and feed it monthly through the growing season. The one extra thing to remember? Wear gloves when handling the fruit, since the berries can sting your skin.

Light

Set it near a window where it gets bright indirect light, filtered rather than blasted by direct sun. It'll cope with medium light and even a bit of shade, but you'll get a fuller, faster-growing plant in a bright spot.

Water

During active growth, water it well, then wait until the top half of the soil dries before going again, which usually lands somewhere around every 7 to 14 days. Come winter, ease off and water sparingly. The goal is evenly moist, never waterlogged, so good drainage really matters.

Soil

Go with a rich, loam-based potting mix that drains freely. It's not fussy and handles clay, loam, and sand just fine. Aim for a pH of 6.0 to 8.0 and you're set.

Temperature

Keep it in the 55°F to 84°F (13°C to 29°C) range and it's happy. It has no tolerance for cold drafts or frost, though, so in winter keep it away from chilly windows and doorways.

Humidity

Ordinary room humidity works fine, but it's happier with a little more moisture in the air. Dry indoor air is what tends to invite spider mites, so a quick misting or a humidity tray can help out, especially in winter.

Feeding

Feed it monthly through spring and summer with a balanced palm fertilizer while it's actively growing. Once the cooler months roll in and growth slows down, you can stop feeding until things pick back up.

Pruning

This one's light work. Trim off any dead or damaged fronds as they show up, and when a stem finishes flowering and dies, just cut it out at the base to clear room for the suckers coming up behind it.

Repotting

Move it to a larger pot every 2 to 3 years, or sooner if it's clearly crowded. The telltale signs? Roots circling or poking out the drainage holes, soil that dries out fast, and growth that's stalled with stems packing the pot.

Size & spacing

Indoors it reaches about 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 m) tall with a spread of 3 to 5 feet (90 to 150 cm). Plan for enough floor space and a bit of breathing room so the fronds can arch out naturally.

Troubleshooting

Two things tend to cause most of the worry with this palm: a stem dying back after it flowers, which is completely normal, and pests showing up when the air dries out, which is easily fixable. Match what you're actually seeing before you reach for any treatment.

Setback

Fine webbing and speckled leaflets in dry indoor air

Warm, dry indoor air is an open invitation to spider mites, one of the worst pests this palm faces indoors. Check the undersides of the leaflets for tiny moving dots and fine webbing, then rinse or wipe the foliage and raise the humidity. If they stick around, treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.

Fix:

  • Rinse or wipe foliage to dislodge mites
  • Raise humidity around the plant
  • Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil as needed
Cosmetic

A whole trunk yellows and collapses after it flowers

If a full trunk turns yellow and dies off after blooming, don't panic, because this is just monocarpic flowering. Each stem blooms once from the top down, sets reddish-black berries, and then dies right on schedule. Cut the spent trunk out at the base and the basal suckers carry the clump forward.

Fix:

  • Cut the spent stem out at the base once it has fully died
  • Allow the surviving suckers to take over the clump

Toxicity

Good news first: the leaves are generally safe to handle, so brushing past or wiping down the fronds isn't a concern. The hazard is the fruit and sap, which carry sharp calcium oxalate crystals that sting the skin, mouth, and throat of both people and pets. No part of it is safe to eat, so keep ripe berries away from children and animals, and wear gloves when you clean them off the seeds.

Toxic to

Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People

Cats Toxic

A cat that bites into the fruit or sap can get a burning mouth, drooling, and pawing at the face, sometimes with lip or tongue swelling and going off food.

Dogs Toxic

Dogs that chew the berries often start drooling and showing mouth pain or retching, and some will vomit or skip their meals.

Horses Caution

Horses rarely run into it, but the oxalate fruit burns the mouth and lips, brings on drooling, and makes them reluctant to graze, so keep fallen fruit out of reach.

Rabbits Toxic

For rabbits it means stinging pain, drooling, and refusing to eat, so never offer them any part of the plant.

Livestock Caution

Livestock that mouth the fruit get a painful sting and swelling and are usually put off after one taste, so fence them away from any browse.

Birds Caution

The irritant crystals make the fruit a poor and risky snack for birds, and pecking at broken berries irritates the beak and mouth, so treat it as off-limits.

People Caution

No part is safe for people to eat, and handling crushed fruit can burn and itch the skin for hours, so wear gloves when cleaning berries off seeds and keep the fruit away from children.

Wear gloves when handling the ripe fruit / cleaning seeds, as the calcium oxalate causes painful skin irritation and itching.

Helpline numbers

United States

ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)

Poison Control: (800) 222-1222

United Kingdom

Animal PoisonLine: 01202 509000 (fee applies)

NHS: 111

Australia

Animal Poisons Helpline: 1300 869 738

Poisons Information Centre: 13 11 26

Canada

Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669

Varieties

There's really just one plant to know here, since it's grown as the straight species. No long list of cultivars to sort through, so you can keep it simple.

Caryota mitis (species)

It's a clumping, multi-stemmed fishtail palm whose ragged, twice-divided leaflets look like a fish's tail, and it renews itself over time from basal suckers.

How to propagate

There are two ways to make more of this palm, and one is far quicker than the other. Dividing the clump is fast, while growing from seed is a long game.

DivisionModerate

Spring to summer during active growth · Several weeks to a few months for divided suckers to root and resume growth

Since it grows as a clump, the easiest way to make new plants is to lift it in spring or summer and split the suckers off from around the base. Each division takes anywhere from a few weeks to a few months to root and get going again.

SeedModerate

When ripe fruit is available; sow fresh seed · Germination can take several weeks to months, then years to reach size

Sow fresh seed whenever ripe fruit is available, and wear gloves while cleaning the pulp since the calcium oxalate can burn and itch. It's the slower route, with germination taking several weeks to months, then years to reach any real size.

Myths

Myth

A yellowing, collapsing trunk means the whole palm is dying or diseased.

Reality

Not so. Each stem flowers once, fruits, and then dies, while the clump carries on through fresh basal suckers. This is normal monocarpic behavior, not a problem, so just cut out the spent trunk and let the new growth take over.

Myth

Like parlor and areca palms, the fishtail palm is harmless to touch.

Reality

The fruit is packed with needle-like calcium oxalate crystals that sting the skin and cause itching when you handle a broken berry. Wear gloves around the ripe fruit, because this one isn't in the same safe company as those other palms.

Sources